News Letter Hard Wood Floor

Our do it yourself project! 

 

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THE WOOD
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3/4 inch Douglas Fur, tong and grove.

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270 square feet.

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Red mahogany stain

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Let the wood sit for a good couple of weeks in the house close to wear you will be installing it. This will prevent unwanted expansion. You could also spread the pieces out a bit more then what is in the photo depending on your available space.

 

Installation Supplies 

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Get your supplies, such as a air nailer with mallet and 3inch staples, a long air hose and an air compressor. Renting them or borrowing them is ideal. Hammer, finishing nails, nail punch, hearing protection, broom, dust pan, a knowledgeable friend, and a dry day or evening.   

 

Leveling the Floor

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Leveling the floor is also a good idea. Since we were using 3/4 inch Douglas Fur we used extra layers of paper where needed, if you were using thinner wood you would have to level the floor the proper way. The paper is require as a moisture barrier. Different areas of the world may use different products.

Installing your first piece of  wood flooring is always a big decision, we picked the area that everyone would see first and it was square to each wall. We left about a 1/2 inch at the end of each row. The moldings will cover that up later.

Cutting Space

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Preparing the wood before you nail it in place is very important. Cutting each end square and straight is crucial. Flat stable cutting surface, a waste bin a vacuum with lots of bags, measuring tape, leave (the leave was handy for measuring) and a pencil . This type of work can't be rushed so take your time. 

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This is another type of saw you will need to make the end pieces. You might want to place this saw down on a piece of flooring paper as it will leave some marks on the floor.  

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Once all the flooring is installed you will need one of these large sanders, a sanding pad and sand paper (we used a 80, 100, and last a 120 grit. Another tip is if you plan on staining your floor don't be to aggressive with the sanding as it will close the pores of the wood and prevent the maximum absorption of stain, leaving a blotchy look. The sanders are heavy so get a helping hand to get it into the house and to take turns maneuvering it back and forth at a slow steady pace. Sand as much as you want or as little as you want. One thing to remember is that the more you sand the thinner your 3/4 inch Douglas Fur will be.

 

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Fill in the holes and or cracks and the knots. 

After having the floor down for a few days we noticed what repairs need to be done. Almost all the knots had sunk into the floor leaving a round dip in the surface which needed to be filled, and there were quite a few flaws, like small chunks and divots. This fill worked great and after some sanding and pre-stain went on the fill became invisible. I just couldn't believe it.

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this orbiter hand sander sure came in handy for all the filled in spots.

After the pre-stain

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After the pre-stain we could still see the filled in spots and we were concerned that they would stick out like a soar thumb.

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but after putting on the first coat of stain our worries were subsided.

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using a brush taped to a broom handle worked out great for applying the stain. Stirring the stain every second dip helped keep the red color consistent.

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following the instructions of the stain company we had to wipe off the excess stain. so we had to gear up. Using a mask is a must, as the smell will drive you crazy. We also put bags on our heads to prevent hair from falling into our work.

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The second coat of stain went on well since the floor was sticky the bags on our feet helped from lifting off to much stain.

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Planning out our exit point was important.

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this is the stain after the second coat. We were not happy with the results so we rubbed off as much of the stain as we could with mineral sprits.

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The last and final coat. We lightly sanded the floor by hand with a sanding sponge. The light sanding helped to open the pores of the wood to accept more stain as we wanted as much red to show threw as possible. This last coat of stain went on differently. We used a rage to apply it so we could control it better and we didn't rub off the excess as we didn't apply it so heavy that there was much excess.

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This is the finished product before the top finishing coats went on.

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We really investigated what product we could use for a finish. Liquid plastic from Cloverdale paints won the pick. It was the most expensive but had the best forgiveness.

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We applied the first coat by brush and our result were favorable. We noticed allot of bubbles but we contributed allot of that to come right out of the wood.

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The second coat was applied with a brush as well and we didn't sand between coats. We wanted to build up the thickness of protective coats before sanding as sanding might take off the stain as well.

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even after the second coat of liquid plastic the little bumps were still apparent.

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So we got out the little palm sander and went over the entire floor with a 120 grit and knocked down the high spots of the little bumps.

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Last coat of Liquid Plastic

We used the pour and push method for the last coat and we tried our very best to keep the applicator on the floor. We only lifted it up to change directions. This method worked the very best, no bubbles. We used a huge amount of product with the pour and push but boy the result was outstanding. The dry time was double as it was on so thick and it was winter time and we couldn't use any heat sores in fear of blowing ourselves up.